Easter Bunny Amigurumi Free Pattern

Easter Bunny!  The height of the finished toy, with the specified materials, is about 22 cm. 

If you have any questions about knitting toys, you can write to me at 

Happy knitting! 

Necessary materials: 

– yarn: 

the first version of the rabbit: Yarn Art Jeans 48 (beige) main color, 86 (light lemon) secondary color. 

the second version of the rabbit: 46 (gray) main color, 33 (bright blue) additional. 

– a little white yarn to decorate the eyes; 

– a little 40 (brown) for the spout in the first version. 

You can absolutely use 

yarn of any color and texture. 

Jeans yarn consumption: 1.5 skeins 

base color and a little more 

half a skein of extra. 

– a thin contrast thread – a marker. 

Be sure to use a marker! 

– a hook of the right size for your yarn, I have it No. 2; 

– filler (holofiber, sintepukh); 

– eyes on a secure mount 8mm (you can use any eyes); 

– a needle for stitching parts; 

– scissors; 

– wire for the frame of toys. I use braided wire from an electrical store (1.5mm); 

– plaster for winding the wire. 

The height of the finished toy, with the specified materials, is about 22 cm. 

Abbreviations

MR – amigurumi ring, you can start knitting in the second loop of the chain if you do not know how or it is inconvenient to do MR; 

SC – single crochet, knit behind both walls of the loop, unless otherwise indicated in the description; 

CH – air loop; 

SL-ST – connecting column, do not knit it too tight; 

DEC – decrease (2SC together behind the front walls) 

DEC – increase (2SC from one loop) 

HDC – half double crochet 

DC – double crochet 

knob – several DCs with one top in one loop of the base, first knit the crochets of all DCs, then complete the knitting of all columns with a common knitting. 

OC is the main color. 

DC is an additional color. 

* – after this asterisk, the number of repetitions of knitted loops is indicated 

General recommendations for knitting toys: 

– First, read the entire description of the toy very carefully, then start knitting, read the description of each row of the toy, take your time and be careful. 

– Choose a hook according to your density! There should be no distance between the columns, the filler should not shine through, but you don’t need to knit too tightly either, the fabric should turn out to be plastic, and not be wooden. 

– Use a good filler to prevent bumps and bumps when filling the toy. 

– All parts are knitted in a spiral, the lifting loop at the beginning of the row and the connecting loop at the end of the row are not used. 

– All loops, except for the decrease loop, are knitted behind both walls of the loop. 

Knitting loops for the front or back wall is indicated in the description of the row. 

– Please note that the connecting column is not knitted tight. 

– Use a thin, contrasting marker thread to mark the beginning of the row. Before knitting the first loop of the row, throw it alternately: before knitting and after knitting. 

– The toy is knitted face out, fig.1. 

– When making the head, insert all the threads and bring them out from the bottom of the head. 

– The thread is changed as follows: 

You knit the last SC not to the end, i.e. insert the hook behind both walls of the loop (when knitting a decrease, we insert the hook behind the two front walls), bring the thread out – there are two loops on the hook, then take the thread 

a different color and knit these loops in a new color. 

– The cone is knitted into one loop of the base, at each column we knit only a crochet, at the end we knit all the columns together. 

– When knitting a bump and further changing the color of the thread, change the thread on knitting all the columns together. 

each DC in the bump 

knit only a crochet when changing colors after the bump, knit all the columns of the bump together with a new color 

– The bump in each part is knitted with a different number of columns, the number of columns is indicated in the description. 

– If the bump does not stick out from the front side, push it with the back of the hook from the wrong side, the bumps should stick out only from the front side, from the wrong side it should look like in the photo. 

– If it is difficult for you to change the color of the thread in the row where the bumps are knitted, knit the row in one, contrasting color. 

– SC one row below is knitted as follows: 

In ordinary knitting, we introduce a hook ok at 

points 2 and 4, a row below – points 1 and 3. 

a DC is knitted to point 1, a DC is knitted to a point 2, a DC is knitted to a point 3, a DC is knitted to a point 4.  loops on the row below are obtained  elongated 

– in this MK, for convenience, there will be no reference to color, the abbreviations OTs (primary color) and DC (additional color) will be used. 

– pay attention to the alternation of colors, in each row it is indicated with 

what color to start. So if it is written: alternating 1×1 OC and DC 10SC, then you must first knit one SC with the main color, then one SC with the additional color. If it is written: alternating 1×1 DC and OTs 10SC, then you must first knit one SC with an additional color, then one SC with the main color. 

Head: 

We begin to knit OTs. Stuff as you knit. The marker passes from the bottom of the head, we do not align it. 

1.5SC to MR 

2. DEC*5 – 10SC 

3. (SC, DEC)*5 – 15SC 

4. SC, DEC, (2SC, DEC)*4, SC – 20SC 

5.20SC 

6. (3SC, DEC)*5 – 25SC 

7. 2SC, DEC, (4SC, DEC)*3, 2SC – 30SC 

8. alternating 6×1 OC and DC (5SC, DEC) * 5 – 35SC 

9. DC: 35SC 

10. alternating 1×1 DC and OC 3SC, DEC, (6SC, 

DEC)*4, 3SC – 40SC 

11. OC: (7SC, DEC) * 5 – 45SC 

12. OC: 4SC, DEC, (8SC, DEC)*4, 4SC – 50SC 

13. alternating 1×1 OTs and DC 50 SC 

14. DC: (9SC, DEC) * 5 – 55SC 

15. alternating 1×1 DC and OC 5SC, DEC, (10SC, DEC) * 4, 5SC – 60SC 

16. OTs:60SC 

17. OTs: 60SC 

18. OTs: 60SC 

19. alternating 3×1 OC and DC 20SC, then alternating 3SC x bump of 5DC 

OTs and DC 20 loops and alternating 3×1 OTs and DC 20 SC (a total of 5 bumps should be obtained in a row) 

20. OTs: 60SC 

21. OTs: 60SC 

Between 15 and 16 rows, insert eyes on 

about 18-19SC apart, follow the bumps, eyes should be placed under the first and last bump of the 19th row. 

22. OTs: 60SC 

23. DC: 60SC 

24. OTs: 60SC 

25. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 60 SC 

26. OC: 4SC, DEC, (8SC, DEC)*5, 4SC – 54SC 

27. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 54 SC 

28. OTs: (7SC, DEC) * 6 – 48SC 

29. DC: 3SC, DEC, (6SC, DEC) * 5, 3SC – 42SC, then we knit only OC 

30. (5SC, DEC)*6 – 36SC 

31. 2SC, DEC, (4SC, DEC)*5, 2SC – 30SC 

32. (3SC, DEC)*6 – 24SC 

33.SC, DEC, (2SC, DEC)*5, SC – 18SC 

34. (SC, DEC)*6 – 12SC 

35. DEC*6 – 6SC 

Leave the end of the thread to tighten the hole, fasten and cut the thread, pull the hole, hide the thread in the head. 

Muzzle shaping: 

Make eye tightening. To do this, enter a strong thread from the bottom of the head, I make the tightening either with the same thread that I knit, or with dental floss. Bring out the needle at point 1, enter at point 2, bring it out at point 3 and enter at point 4, make such a “figure eight” several times, while pulling the thread, but do not overdo it, just drown your eyes slightly. When the desired result is achieved, bring the thread from the bottom of the head and fasten. In the same way, make tightening points 5.6 and 7.8. 

Embroider the whites of the eyes with white thread. With the thread of the nose color, embroider the nose between the first row (inserting the needle into MR) and the 5th row of the head. Embroider the nose as you like – filling the entire nose with yarn or just highlighting the outline of the nose, see photo. Embroider a smile and eyebrows. 

first nose second nose 

Ears: 

We begin to knit OTs. Knit two identical parts. marker passes 

on the side of the part, make sure that all reductions are on the side. 

1.6SC to MR 

2. DEC*6 – 12SC 

3. (SC, DEC)*6 – 18SC 

4. SC, DEC, (2SC, DEC)*5, SC – 24SC 

5.24SC 

6. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 24SC, while DC 

knit a row below. 

7. DC: (3SC, DEC)*6 – 30SC 

8. OTs: 30SC 

9. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 30SC 

10. OC: (14SC, DEC)*2 – 32SC 

11. DC: 32SC 

12. OTs: 32SC 

13. DC: (15SC, DEC)*2 – 34SC 

14. OTs: behind the back wall 34SC 

15. OTs: 34SC 

16. DC: (16SC, DEC)*2 – 36SC 

17. OTs: 36SC 

18. alternating 3SC x 5DC sts OTs and DTs 36 sts 

19. OTs: 36SC 

20. DC: (DEC, 16SC)*2 – 34SC 

21. OTs: 34SC 

22. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 34SC 

23. alternating 1×1 DC and OC (DEC, 15) * 2 – 32SC, while knitting the first decrease in the DC, the second decrease in the OC, while the loop before the decrease is also OC 

24. alternating 1×1 DC and OTs 32SC, while knitting the 17th loop with OTs, thus. 

the first and last loops of the row – DC, 16 and 17 loops of the row – OTs. 

in photo 1 – this is the 16th loop of the 23rd row, 2 – 

17th loop of the 23rd row (DEC) 

3-4 – 16 and 17 loops of the 24th row 

25. OTs: 32SC 

26. DC: (DEC, 14SC)*2 – 30SC 

27. DC: 30SC 

28. DC: 30SC 

29. OC: (DEC, 13SC)*2 – 28SC 

30. OTs: 28SC 

31. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 28SC, while knitting the DC one row below 

32. DC: (DEC, 12SC)*2 – 26SC 

33. OTs: 26SC 

34. OTs: 26SC 

35. DC: (DEC, 11SC)*2 – 24SC 

36. alternating 2×2 DC and OTs 24SC 

37. DC: 24SC 

38. OTs: (DEC, 10SC) * 2 – 22SC 

39. OTs: 22SC 

40. OTs: 22SC 

41. DC: (DEC, 9SC)*2 – 20SC 

42. DC: behind the back wall 20SC 

43. OTs: 20SC 

44. OTs: (DEC, 8SC) * 2 – 18SC 

45. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 18SC 

46. DC: 18SC 

47. alternating 1×1 OC and DC (DEC, 7SC) * 2 – 16SC 

48. OTs: 16SC 

49. OTs: 16SC 

50. DC: (DEC, 6SC)*2 – 14SC 

51. alternating 1×1 OTs and DTs 14SC, then we knit only OTs 

52.14SC 

53. (DEC, 5SC)*2 – 12SC 

54.12SC 

55.12SC 

Fasten the thread, leave a long end for sewing, cut off. 

Fold the ear in half and sew behind the front walls. Attach a thread to the 43rd row DC and knit 20SL-ST. Fasten the thread, cut and hide. 

Sew the ears to the head at the end of the design of the muzzle, between the 20th and 26th rows of the head, focusing on the knobs of the 19th row of the head. 

Upper paws: 

We start knitting with the main color, do not fill the paws. Link two Vthe same details. Marker runs sideways, do not align. 

1. 6SC to MR – 6SC 

2. DEC *6 – 12SC 

3. (3SC, DEC)*3 – 15SC 

4. OTs: 2SC, DTs: bump of 3 columns with a crochet, (OTs: SC, DTs: knob) * 3, OTs: 6SC – 15 loops 

5. OC: 2SC, DEC*3, 7SC – 12SC 

6. OC: 12SC 

7. OC: 2SC, DEC*2, 6SC – 10SC 

8. OTs: 10SC 

9. DC: 10SC 

10. OTs: 10SC 

11. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 10SC 

12. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 10SC 

13. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 10SC 

14. OTs: 10SC 

15. DC: 10SC 

16. OTs: 10SC 

17. OTs: 10SC 

18. OTs: 10SC 

19. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 10SC 

20. DC: 10SC 

21. alternating 1×1 DC and OTs 10SC 

22. OTs: 10SC 

23. OTs: 10SC 

24. OTs: 10SC, fasten the thread and cut off. Paws will be tied into the body. 

Feet: 

We start knitting with the main color. We knit two identical parts. 

Marker runs sideways, do not align. 

1.6SC to MR 

2. DEC*6 – 12SC 

3. (SC, DEC)*6 – 18SC 

4. (2SC, DEC)*6 – 24SC 

5. OTs: 3SC, (DC: 4 double crochet bump, OTs: SC)*4, OTs: 

13SC – 24sts 

6. OC: 24SC 

7. OTs: 24SC 

8. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 24SC 

9. OC: 24SC 

10. alternating 1×1 OC and DC (DEC, 10SC) * 2 – 22SC 

11. OTs: 22SC 

12. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 22SC 

13. OC: (DEC, 9SC)*2 – 20SC 

14. OTs: 20SC 

15. DC: 20SC 

16. OTs: (DEC, 8SC) – 18SC 

17. DC: 18SC 

18. OTs: 3SC, CH * 5 (when knitting CH, skip 5SC), 10SC – 18 loops 

19. OC: 3SC, 5SC on CH, 10SC – 18SC 

We put a little filler in the foot, take the wire, fold 

its loop to the size of the foot, wrap it with a plaster and insert it into 

leg, into the hole between the 17th and 18th rows. We leave about 25 cm 

wire. Next, we stuff the foot well. 

20. OTs: 18SC 

21. OTs: (SC, DEC) * 6 – 12SC, it’s good to fill the heel. 

22. OC: DEC*6 

Leave the end of the thread to tighten the hole, fasten the thread and cut off. 

Pull the hole, hide the thread inside the paw. 

Paws: 

We knit two identical parts. The marker passes from the side, align if necessary. 

Start knitting from the right and left sides for the right and left paws, respectively. Knitting start with the left paw. 

knitting of the left paw we start from point 1 

we start knitting the right paw from point 2 

1. On the edge of the opening of the foot, we collect 12SC OTs, put a marker 

2. OC: (SC, DEC) * 6 – 18SC 

3. OTs: 18SC 

4. OC: 18SC 

5. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 18SC 

6. DC: (5SC, DEC)*3 – 21SC 

7. alternating 1×1 OTs and DTs 21SC, then we knit OTs all rows of paws 

8. 3SC, DEC, (6SC, DEC)*2, 3SC – 24SC 

9.24SC 

10.24SC 

11.24SC 

Fasten and cut the thread on the left paw, continue knitting on the right paw: knit 4CH and connect with SL-ST to the left paw. 

Stuff the paws well, especially pay attention to the junction of the foot and the continuation of the paw. 

Body: 

We continue to knit from the paws, we fill as we knit. The marker runs along the back, from the 23rd row the marker should be located exactly in the middle of the back. 

1. (24SC foot, 4SC CH) *2 – 56SC 

2. DEC, 22SC, DEC*6, 22SC, DEC*2, 2SC, DEC – 66SC 

Put your paws, find the most successful position in which the future rabbit stands confidently. Bend the wire of the paws towards each other, twist. At a height of about 16 cm from the floor, bend the wire into a loop so that it does not interfere with knitting. Do not wrap with a plaster; when attaching hands, we will unbend it. 

3.66SC 

4. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 66 SC, while knitting the DC one row below 

5. DC: 66SC 

6. OTs: behind the back wall 66SC 

7. OC: 66SC 

8. OC: (9SC, DEC)*6 – 60SC 

9. alternating 5SC x 1 bump of 5DC OTs and DC 60 SC 

10. OTs: 60SC 

11. OTs: 60SC 

12. DC: 60SC 

13. alternating 1×1 DC and OC 4SC, DEC, (8SC, DEC) * 5, 4SC – 54SC 

14. OTs: 54SC 

15. OTs: 54SC 

16. DC: 54SC 

17. alternating 3×3 DC and OTs 54SC 

18. DC: 54SC 

19. OTs: (7SC, DEC) * 6 – 48SC 

20. OTs: 48SC 

21. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 48 SC 

22. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 48 SC 

In the next row, the decrease should be on the sides of the toy. 

23. OC: 11SC, DEC, 22SC, DEC, 11SC – 46SC 

24. OTs: 46SC 

It is good to stuff the body, form a tummy, then do not stuff the body until the upper paws are attached. 

25. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 46 SC 

26. DC: 10SC, DEC, 22SC, DEC, 10SC – 44SC 

27. alternating 1×1 DC and OTs 44 SC 

28. OTs: 44SC 

29. OC: 10SC, DEC, 20SC, DEC, 10SC – 42SC 

30. OTs: 42SC 

In the next row we attach paws. We turn the paws with knobs inward. 

31. OTs: 9SC, 3SC with foot,18SC, 3SC with 

paw, 9SC – 42SC 

We put a little filler in the upper paws. We straighten the wire running from the lower paws along the body. We take the wire, make a small loop, wrap it with a plaster, insert it into the paw, wrap the body around the wire, measure the required length of wire for the second paw, cut it off, make a loop, wrap it with a plaster and insert it into the paw. If necessary, we cut off the excess from the wire of the body, bend it with a loop and wrap it well with a plaster along with me paw attachment stoma. We stuff the body well, we do not stuff the upper paws much with a hook or a wooden stick. 

32. DC: 9SC, 7SC on the paw, 18SC, 7SC on the paw, 9SC – 50SC 

33. OTs: behind the back wall 12SC, DEC, 22SC, DEC, 12SC – 48SC 

34. OTs: 3SC, DEC, (6SC, DEC) * 5, 3SC – 42SC 

35. alternating 5SC x 1 bump of 4DC OTs and DC 42 SC 

36. OTs: 42SC 

37. OTs: (5SC, DEC) * 6 – 36SC 

38. OTs: 2SC, DEC, (4SC, DEC) * 5, 2SC – 30SC 

39. DC: (3SC, DEC) * 6 – 24SC 

40. OTs: 24SC, leave a long end for sewing on the head, thread 

fasten and cut. 

Tail: 

We begin to knit OTs. Fill lightly before sewing to the body. 

We sew approximately between 6 and 8 rows of the body. 

1.6SC to MR 

2. DEC*6 – 12SC 

3. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 12 SC 

4. alternating 1×1 OC and DC 12 SC 

5. OC: 2SC, DEC*4, 2SC – 8SC 

Fasten the thread, leave the long end of the thread for sewing. 

Sew the head to the body. 

Your Easter Bunny is ready!